Tasting Tokyo
It goes without saying that Japan is one of the top culinary destinations of the world. This past Winter I had the opportunity to travel to Tokyo and Kyoto and experience for myself the incomparable Japanese food culture.
Tokyo is an interesting city. There are times, when standing amongst the sky scrapers and modern buildings, that you feel you could be in any city in the world. Yet the minute you enter a restaurant or market and start to taste the flavours of the local cuisine, you know you couldn’t be anywhere but Japan.
Tokyo is famous for some of Japan’s top culinary delights including sushi, ramen and soba. I was determined to seek out some of the best that the city had to offer and taste the authentic flavours of Japan for myself.
Sushi
Sushi is possibly Japans’ most well known exports, but eating sushi in Tokyo is an entirely different ball game. Forget avocado and California rolls; here it is all about fresh, raw seafood. I recommend trying at least one omikase (chef’s choice) sushi experience at a high end sushi restaurant when you’re in the city.
Dare I say my meal at Sushi-Ya was the best of my entire life? It’s possible. This 8 seat restaurant is tricky to find, tucked away amongst the upscale shops of Ginza, but once you’re there you will be taken on a culinary journey you won’t forget. The experience isn’t overly serious unlike (as I’ve heard) many of the top sushi restaurants of Tokyo can be. Chef Mamoru Hashimoto speaks a number of languages and is happy to explain every dish, or to recommend his favourite drink pairing for your next course. During a 20 course omikase menu I sampled ebi with snapper liver and uni, marinated clam with yuzu, and 3 different cuts of tuna paired with champagne and sake.
For a more relaxed yet still remarkeable sushi experience visit Sushidan, tucked away at the back of the Eat Play Works food hall in Shibuya. It’s no surprise the food is top notch given it is the sister restaurant of the notable Hakkoku sushi restaurant in Ginza. The young chef Takehiro Arakawa expertly executes a 15 course omikase, and the red rice vinegar seasoned rice adds another depth to each bite. @sushidan.tokyo
Additional sushi recommendations in Tokyo:
Sushi M - an upscale sushi restaurant with sommelier-designed wine and sake pairings. Expect the prices to match the top notch experience.
Isana - there’s a lively and convivial atmosphere at this little sushi restaurant thanks to the internationally experienced chef who worked for a decade in London before returning to open his own spot in Tokyo. He cheerfully welcomes guests as he serves up premium sake and the freshest fish from the Toyosu market.
Udatsu - tired of traditional sushi? Visit Udatsu for a world class sushi experience with a twist. Vegetarian menus are available on request, something that can be hard to come by in this seafood loving city.
Hakkoku - an ultimate sushi experience awaits you at Hakkoku, the upscale sister restaurant of Sushidan. Michelin starred chef Hiroyuki Sato executes an exceptional 32 + nigiri omakaze at this Ginza hot spot.
Tsukiji Fish Market
The Tsukiji Fish Market is a must for any culinary adventurer in Tokyo. It’s an excellent place to sample a little bit of everything and dip your toes into Japanese cuisine.
The market spans a number of blocks in downtown Tokyo between the Ginza district and the Sumida River. Seemingly endless rows of stands, shops and restaurants offering different wares line the alleys of the market. It’s crowded with tourists and locals alike, everyone clamouring to get in an order from the best vendors. You can tell which stands are the most popular as lines can easily snake down an entire block.
I entered the market on the Northwest Corner (having walked from Glitch coffee roasters in Jinbocho, a highly recommended stop) and began to explore my options. I wanted to start with something fresh and light so headed to a popular looking stand offering small plates of raw seafood. Simply point at what you’d like and the vendor plates them for you with a touch of wasabi and a toothpick. I stood in the sun with a high ball (whisky soda lemon, a Japanese classic) and sampled the raw tuna, scallops and sea urchin with a splash of soy sauce. It was ridiculously fresh and absolutely delicious.
Next stop was sushi. I had eyed up a popular looking stand at the far North West corner where I had entered and decided to return. This small sushi bar is standing room only with space for about 6 people. The line was fairly long and I waited over 30 minutes for the chance to huddle up to the counter and place my order. After watching three young Tokyoites order a set of various cuts of tuna nigiri I decided to follow suit.
The elderly sushi chef gingerly placed each peace of nigiri on my plate, an selection of increasingly fatty cuts of tuna belly (toro, chu-toro, o-toro) that melted in my mouth. This was one of my first stops in Tokyo and it did not disappoint.
There is so much more to experience at the Tsukiji Fish Market market, from grilled scallops doused in butter and soy, to seared wagyu beef. To ensure that you have the best experience at Tsukiji, aim to arrive early and consider joining a tour where an experienced guide can lead you directly to the best that the market has to offer.
Cocktails & Natural Wine
Tokyo isn’t only an amazing food city. There are also plenty of cocktail and wine bars to keep you busy when the sun goes down. Japan has a thriving natural wine scene, and I was surprised to find some highly quaffable Japanese wines produced from local and international grapes. Below are some spots not to be missed.
This little spot in Ebisu is everything you want a cocktail bar to be. Dimly lit, the dark shelves lined with vintage artifacts and liquor from every corner of the world, a concise list of classics and house creations on offer. Enjoying the well executed cocktails is easy, grabbing one of the coveted seats might prove to be a little more difficult.
The man behind Bar Benfiddich is known for his hyper local ingredients and one of a kind cocktails. There’s no menu at this Shinjuku hot spot, the bartender will determine the realm of drink you’re after and create something just for you. Think Japanese gin paired with shiso and house made umeboshi (salted plum) liqueur.
In typical Tokyo fashion, this tiny sliver of a bar can accommodate about 8 people with standing room only. Walk in the door and you’re greeted by Yasuhiro Ooyama, the jovial owner who is happy to help you select a wine despite the language barrier. A hand written menu of small plates offers light snacks such as cheese and paté. The list of natural wines is European focused with a few local wines available by the bottle.
This wood lined cellar bar and wine shop in Hatagaya offers an impressive selection of natural wines. Select your own bottle from their cellar and enjoy it along with a curated selection of cheese and charcuterie.
This bright and welcoming little bar is a great place to stop if you’re in search of Japanese wines. There’s always a rotating selection open by the glass. Paired with small plates prepared by the owner yourself, it’s a cozy spot to pass an afternoon or evening in Tokyo.
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