Your Guide to Northern California
Where to eat, stay and play near the Sonoma Coast.
This October, my husband and I packed up our car to set off on a road trip from Canada to Northern California. Although it wasn’t our first time doing this drive, I had forgotten how absolutely breathtaking the scenery of America’s northwest coastline is. Our favourite section was the coast of Sonoma County in California, a stretch of the US that still feels rugged and somewhat remote compared to the busyness of Southern California. It’s the perfect place to connect with nature, hike along secluded beaches, dine on local oysters, and explore the world renowned wines of Sonoma.
The Route
You can begin your drive either from the north or fly into San Francisco and rent a car. Either way, I recommend driving one way on the coast and returning inland via Sonoma wine country. Your most northerly point will depend on how much of the coastline you want to experience. In my opinion, the stretch of coast between Fort Bragg/Mendocino down to Bodega Bay is the most beautiful in California. I also recommend continuing a little further south into Marshall in Tomales Bay to dine on West Coast oysters at some of my favourite spots mentioned below. Your return will take you through Healdsburg in the heart of Sonoma’s Russian River wine region where you’ll have the chance to sip on world class pinot noir and chardonnay.
If you have the time, I highly recommend adding San Francisco as a destination to your journey, however this post will be dedicated to the lesser known stops north of the city. Reach out to me if you’re interested in learning more about what San Francisco has to offer.
Where to Stay
Set along a remote stretch of coast in Sonoma County, the Sea Ranch Lodge is a perfect destination for a quiet coastal escape. Originally built in 1968, the lodge’s 17 guest rooms have been completely redesigned with a mid-century-modern-meets-coastal-cabin feel. The in-house restaurant offers seasonal, locally sourced dining with views over the Pacific, while the fireside lounge is a dreamy spot for a cozy morning coffee or post hike cocktail. Wine tastings, art exhibitions and yoga are just a few of the activities on offer, and the nearby hills and cliffs provide incredible terrain for exploring by foot.
Photo courtesy of The Sea Ranch Lodge
This charming, family owned property is a private haven among bustling Sonoma wine country. Centred around an original 1870’s farmhouse, the 6 acre estate now features 18 guest rooms, suites and cottages laid out across a 6 acre estate. The design retains an authentic farmhouse feel combined with contemporary interiors and top notch service. Don’t miss a meal at their Michelin starred (one of the region’s first) French restaurant to enjoy one of the best dining experiences in the Russian River Valley.
The Montage hotel is unparalleled for a luxury experience in Sonoma wine country. Set among 250 acres of vineyard, the hotel’s ample outdoor areas include multiple pools, cabanas and outdoor dining in which to experience your natural surroundings. This beautiful property provides the luxury and hospitality you would expect from a Montage property with a decidedly Californian design.
Located in downtown Healdsburg, this boutique hotel is an excellent base for experiencing the vineyards and wineries of Northern Cali. In stark contrast to the vintage farm feel of most hotels in Sonoma and Napa, Harmon guest house is sleek and modern. Exposed concrete walls are accented by reclaimed redwood and local eucalyptus. Finish your day with a drink on their rooftop for views over Fitch mountain, Sonoma and downtown Healdsburg.
For a totally unique and local experience, consider renting one of the quaint and cozy waterfront cottages at Nick’s Cove. Set in Tomales Bay, home to some of the west coast’s most divine oysters, Nick’s is the perfect place to experience Northern California seafood at it’s best. The redesigned cottages are a seamless blend of rustic and luxury with thoughtfully curated vintage furnishings. Tomales Bay is also a great location for accessing the hiking, biking, surfing and wine tasting around Sonoma and North Marin County.
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There are many more incredible stays to be had in Norther California that suit every taste. I can help you find the perfect stay to match your travel style and budget.
*Want insider perks?: book your stay at select hotels with me to receive complimentary room upgrades, spa credits and more VIP benefits
Where to Eat + Drink
Fine Dining
Harbor House Inn - a Michelin starred, 20 seat restaurant overlooking the ocean with some of the best views of any restaurant in the region.
Farmhouse Inn - as mentioned above, the restaurant at this family owned property is one of the first Michelin stars in the region, an accolade they have consistently maintained over the past 14 years. Local and seasonal ingredients with exceptional service.
Single Thread - This 3 Michelin star restaurant in the heart of downtown Healdsburg is a special experience. With hyper local ingredients pulled from their onsite farm, the menu is inventive, well-executed and a pleasure to enjoy. Rounded out with an impeccable selection of local and global wines and sake, this is a dining experience you won’t soon forget. Bookings are released on the first of the month and go quickly.
More Casual
Tony’s Seafood - located in Tomales Bay, an exceptional spot to try local oysters and other seafood. The vibe is fun and relaxed, with local wines served in tumblers and rustic, picnic table seating along the water’s edge. Their fries are possibly the best I’ve ever had and not to be missed.
Nick’s Cove - also in Tomales Bay, another oyster hot spot with cozy indoor seating and a wood fire for those foggy West Coast days.
What do Do
Wine, Wine and More Wine
With more than 500 wineries, Sonoma is an incredible destination for a wine oriented road trip. Cooler than it’s neighbour Napa to the East, Sonoma is known for producing world class pinot noir and chardonnay, but many producers are now introducing more unique varieties to the area. You don’t need to search hard to find a winery to visit - the roads around Healdsburg are lined with tasting room after tasting room.
Natural Wine Finds
In the heart of Healdsburg, you can visit Idlewild Wines, a small, natural wine producer using exclusively Piedmontese varietals. Also in Healdsburg, The Drink is a fun and buzzy spot where you can taste wines from two labels, Rootdown Wine Cellars and Leo Steen Wines. Pax is a natural wine producer focusing on syrah and gamay grapes with a tasting room in Sebastopol. It’s a lively spot to stop for a glass of wine and charcuterie. Ryme Cellars serves up low intervention and organic wines at an adorably rustic tasting room just outside Forestville.
Outdoor Activities
With almost 90 kilometres of coastline, Sonoma offers plenty of opportunity for coastal hiking and beach walking. Salt Point is an exceptionally beautiful trail near Jenner, as is the Kortum trail along the secluded cliffs of Sonoma State Park. Further inland, extensive trail networks provide terrain for hiking, mountain biking and horse back riding. In the Armstrong State Natural Reserve near Guerneville you can experience the majestic California redwoods, although it can get crowded on the weekends. The Grove of Old Trees near Occidental is a lesser known area to see old growth trees along an easily accessible path. Pomo Canyon to Red Hill is another excellent hike with stunning views over the coast and the start of the Russian River Valley.
If you’re more excited about mountain biking, the network of trails up north in Mendocino County serves up some fun and challenging rides through the redwoods. Stop in to a local bike shop in Mendocino for route guidance and recommendations.
Just across the bridge from San Francisco lies the Marin Headlands, an area famed for mountain biking, but it’s also an excellent area for hiking. History buffs will enjoy the remnants of former military settlements dotted through the area dating from both the world wars and cold war eras.
For more unique experiences and off-the-beaten path recommendations, reach out to me at laurian.green@traveledge.com. I’d love to help you plan the coastal California experience of your dreams!